Sewing a Blouse (Newlook 6407) Day 4


According to my own notes we jump from step 10 to step 15 on the pattern instruction sheet. Assuming I knew what I was doing when I wrote the notes, I will  jump to 15 and tackle the front facing of the shirt. This means more blind steam-ironing (without glasses or with steamed up glasses).
My notes also miss out the clipping at this stage.
So, with my iron-on interfacing applied to the front facing sections, I have stitched 1/2" from neck edge and edge finished along un-notched edge and shoulder. I have chosen to edge finish by stitching under 1/2 seam.





My notes now tell me, with right sides together and double notches together. stitch front facing (NOT neck edge) to the shirt front, press under.
As you can see, modelled by the lovely Diana, I have pressed under one side, the other side showing the stitched seam and the raw neck edge.



The alert amongst us (?) will remember I haven't overlocked the shoulder seams, so I need to do that before slip stitching the shoulder of the facing to the shoulder seam.

Overlocker re-threaded, shoulder and side seams overlocked and front facings attached at shoulder, (moreover, the overlocker and I are still on speaking terms).
Now clip or notch the curve of the front facing neck edge, up to the line of stitching. (Just the facing, not the shirt front.)

Now to stitch the collar on. This is where all the changes in the notes have got us to.  The collar can be pinned and stitched by placing it on the outside of the shirt (right side of fabric together) with the facing uppermost (the piece with it's edge pressed under). The facing can be successfully kept out of the way of the seam and hand stitched down afterwards. I hope you can see what I mean in these photos.

             

Stitch slowly, checking all the time that what should be included in the seam is being and isn't puckered. I must confess to unpicking a few stitches where I puckered the back of the shirt and also were the shoulder seam wasn't stitched down flat. Just a quick re-stitch over these areas and I am ready to trim and clip/notch the seam to help it lay flat (or rather lay curved, if that makes sense). This needs to be done with great care at the corners which need to have the bulk removed but still need enough fabric in the seam to tuck in when stitching down the collar facing to the inside of the shirt. Keep easing it into place and trimming a tiny bit more until it lays well. Press well and slip stitch it down.


There. Enough for today.